taco's & toucan's travels ~ 2019

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DAY 33

Week 5

BAYAMO (Granma, CUB) to BARACOA (Guantánamo, CUB)

Tuesday April 16^th, 2019

TODAYS MILEAGE – 206 miles / 332 kilometres

TRIP MILEAGE – 16,838 miles / 27,098 kilometres

9 o’clock was the official starting time for our hour long horse & buggy ride through the streets of Bayamo, who’s major claim to fame aside from being the birthplace of the national flag and anthem, was that its produced two national Presidents, who actually lived across the street from each other.

Whilst I’m not a huge fan of touristy horse carriage rides, due to the fact that the animals always look in poor condition and/or are mistreated. Truth be told, I think this may have been the second or third one in all my travels.

On closer inspection these animals looked in great shape, the equipment was obviously serviced and maintained well. There were no rub marks or open wounds on the horses and their hooves and shoes looked in excellent shape. I come to find out that the government vet inspects the animals every day and pulls the operator’s license for any issues found during the inspection.

Our ride took in such places as the Luz Vázquez window which inspired the first Cuban troubadour romantic song - The Bayamesa, the Retablo de los Héroes, the site where two former Cuban Presidents lived across the street from each other and Plaza de la Patria de Bayamo where Fidel Castro gave his final public speech in July 2006, before being taken ill and stepping down as president and the only monument he appears on in Cuba.

Our next stop for the day was the infamous - in recent times, 120 square kilometre Guantánamo Bay Naval Base or 'Gitmo' as the locals call it. As attractions go, you’ll be sorely disappointed with Mirador La Gobernadora as you’re over 20 miles away, perched on a hill overlooking an inlet that protects most of the site. Even when paying the $1 USD fee to climb the tower and use their Spanish-American war era looking-glasses (i.e. busted arse binoculars) you are afforded no better views.

We ended the day with a two-hour drive into Baracoa in which I’m staying with a local family at their casa - Hostal La Cueva, by the Atlantic Ocean, which makes a change from the hotels I’ve had so far on this trip.

Casa stays have sprung up everywhere in Cuba since the government allowed such capitalist ventures nearly a decade ago. You, as a traveller, are essentially a guest in a local’s house which allows them to supplement their income with hard currency and you get to experience the hospitality of a local stay.

Around 5 o'clock, and armed with "Vitamin R" (i.e. local rum), Crystal cerveza’s, my JBL Flip 3 portable Bluetooth speaker, some classic Cuban rhythms and expert tutelage from our G Adventures CEO – Victor, we all met up at Casa Elvira and spent the next couple of hours enjoying rooftop Salsa dance lessons.

Dinner was an off-the-beaten-path restaurant affair at Terazza La Roca Grill which consisted of a family style buffet of local dishes including pork, lobster, prawns, bean soup, rice, plantain chips, salad, custard pudding and coffees for $15 USD.