Category: Oaxaca de Juárez

I decided to take advantage of a $40 USD ($55 AUD) “Oaxaca Highlight” day tour that was scheduled to last 12 hours.

First stop of the day was Zona Arqueológica de Monte Albán (Monte Albán ruins) located in the hills overlooking Oaxaca, about 9 kilometres (6 miles) away to the west. The site dates back to 650 BC and in its heyday, was the one of the greatest Zapotec ‘holy’ cities, with a population of over 30,000. It is estimated that only about 10% of the site has yet been uncovered.

As we were promised a late lunch, we stopped to stretch our legs at El Árbol del Tule (Tule tree) that measures 42.0 metres (137.8 feet) in circumference, before continuing on to the Petrified Waterfalls of Hierve el Agua (Spanish for “the water boils”).

Although the site name itself would certainly imply boiling water would be found, the truth is that you can actually swim in the three natural pools located within the area. The petrified waterfall name comes from the fact that the subterranean waters bubbling to the surface, move so slowly that the minerals actually attach to the waterfalls on the way down the mountain.

Just as we were about to leave, a storm blew through with plenty of thunder, lightning and rain which slowed our departure down by ½ an hour, while we waited for two people caught out in the elements.

When we were advised of a late lunch, I didn’t think 4:15 would be time, but here we are at El Famoso Buffet & Mezcaleria with an offering that looked and tasted to have been out for most of the day. A bit over an hour later, we stopped at Casa el Colibri Weaving Gallery which for me was about as interesting as watching paint dry.

Final stop of the day turned out to a whole lot more informative and enjoyable than the mezcal tasting from last night. Our hosts at Mezcal Don Agave took us through the whole process from plant selection to final packaging and distribution. We then sampled ½ a dozen of their products with the best for my mind was the mescal that was distilled with a chicken breast, that made the sipping liquor smooth and with literally zero back taste, which is what I struggled with at last night’s tastings.

We got back to the hotel right on 8 bells and as we had to get up before our 4:30 AM departure, I only had a time for a quick tub, pack & stack my gear and hit the fart sack to check the eyelids for holes.

Everyone was up and out the door of the Gilfer Hotel at 7:30 AM, loaded into 5 cabs and off to the Autobuses CAPU for our 8:25 AM departure on the Autobus Ado service to Oaxaca de Juárez or more simply – Oaxaca (pronounced wuh-haka).

At 550 Peso’s ($40.16 AUD), the “Premier” seating service was quite enjoyable in a comfortable air-conditioned coach that seemed to be only a couple of years young. The 345 kilometre (215 mile) 6-hour trip passed seemingly in no time, with the exception of a head-on collision between a ute and an overtaking car, high up on the mountain range along the Puebla/Oaxaca border.

We checked into the Hotel Oaxaca Real and as our rooms had not been finalised by housekeeping, we headed off on an orientation walk that eventually took us over to the Mercado 20 de Noviembre where we parked up at the Comedor María Alejandra, where for a measly $15 AUD I thoroughly enjoyed a “Mexican counter lunch” of Tlayuda Mixta and 3 beers no less.

The dish consisted of a large 12-inch partially fried or toasted corn tortilla, covered with a refried beans paste, shredded cabbage, flat iron pork and beef, Oaxaca cheese , chouriço (a type of pork sausage) and a cilantro & chilli sauce …… which sounds like an odd combination, but awesome eating.

From there it was over to the Chocolate Mayordomo cacao/chocolate factory and then onto one of our CEO’s favourite bars for some happy hour cerveza’s and margarita’s.

After an early evening freshen-up, those of us who are a bit partial to adult beverages gathered at 9AM for a Mezcal tasting at the “Einstein of Mezcal’s” mezcaleria – In Situ. I settled on a sampling containing the Penca Verde, Agave Karwinskii and Agava Rhodacantha varieties and unlike tequila, these are a sipping spirit not shot materials.

I’d have to say that even when engaging the “correct” sipping technique of (a) exhaling all air in your lungs, (b) take a sip of mexcal, (c) breathe in through your nose, (d) swallow the mescal and (e) breathe out through your mouth, I found all three had a harsh after taste and not a smooth sipping experience at all.

A few of us ended up at the Praga Coffee Bar overlooking the Templo de Santo Domingo (Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán) for a couple of nightcaps.