SAN JUAN LA LAGUNA – Sololá, GUA

The original plan was to leave Panjanchel around 3:30PM to cross Lake Atitlán by boat and land in San Juan La Laguna for a local family home-stay for the night. Those plans changed when Sonia suggested a stop along the way, which facilitated a 9:30AM departure.

Carved directly from the soaring cliff face, La Casa del Mundo in the adjacent Jaibalito municipality is a 58 kilometre (36 mile) and a 2+ hour drive along winding mountain roads, but for 20 GTQ ($3.80 AUD) each we rode for 15 minutes in one of the local lanchas (regular ferry boats).

The stop ended up being 6 hours long, the views out over the lake made for a stunning lunchtime dining experience and allowed me to complete my Cuba blog entries and get a start on my new David Baldacci book.

Around 3:30PM were met at the dock by another lancha and ferried over to San Juan La Laguna, a town of around 11,200 that would be our stop for the night. This leg would have been 19 kilometres (12 miles) and a 1+ hour drive, but took the lancha only 20 minutes.

We would be down to a group of 5 as Lila took such a shine to La Casa del Mundo that she decided to spend the night and we’ll collect her on the way back to Panjanchel tomorrow.

We were met at the San Juan La Laguna dock by a representative of the local Mayan tourism concern, met our respective home stay family members, then dropped our gear of at the homes and met up at the local park to go on a walk of the town.

We visited the Iglesia Católica church, the Codeas Women’s Weaving Cooperative, Qomaneel Plantas Medicinales, Licor Marrón Chocolate and an art gallery thrown in for good measure.

It was just on sundown as we headed back to our respective home-stays, I dropped my camera off and headed out to do a bit of exploring before dinner. As I was starting to feel like a long-haired friend of Jesus in a chartreuse microbus, I decided to resolve that via 20 minutes with a cutthroat razor in a local barbershop and I feel like a new man – do you know any???

On my meanderings, I ended up way out along the shoreline when I got WhatsApp messages from both Coco and Sonia that dinner was ready. I’d completely forgotten about it and said for them to continue without me, as I was literally miles away. I ended up grabbing a pizza at Restaurante Rostro Maya, which to be honest, was a pretty decent offering. Upon arrival at the house, we got to chatting with Raul and his wife Maria and got to hang out with their 5 year old grandson Francis, who’s taken a shining to me.

No shower for me tonight as when I was heading off to bed, Raul informs me that the city turns the water off between 8:30 PM and 5 AM to conserve water from un-repaired plumbing and water systems. There’s a big lake at the doorstep – skinny dipping anyone???

PANAJACHEL – Sololá, GUA

With the remnants of yesterday evenings hike still burning in our legs, I reckon quite a few of us were more than happy to have a 9:30 AM departure this morning for Panjanchel.

The town of approximately 11,100 is located on the shores of Lake Atitlán, a 3 hour and 110 kilometre (68 mile) minibus trip northwest of Antigua, in the Sololá Department.

Just in case you’re curious, At an area of 130 square kilometers (50.2 sq miles) and 340 metres (1,120 feet) deep, Lake Atitlán is also the deepest lake in Central America.

After checking into our accommodations at Hotel Posada K’amol B’ey we took a bit of an orientation walk through the town before settling on Deli Llama de Fuego for a pretty decent lunch.

While all 5 girls “sardined” themselves into a Tuk-Tuk to go check out an adjacent national park, I spent the afternoon just exploring the town at my leisure.

Just after 7PM we walked down to the Mayan owned and operated Restaurante Jose Pingüinos for dinner. As part of the meal, the owner – Jose, demonstrated the xylophone-type Mayan percussion instrument – the Marimba, is constructed and then had his two daughters and a male employee play for us during the meal. With the utmost of respect, the traditional music sounded a lot like that which accompanied silent movies or Vaudeville acts of the time.

Jose also had his daughter Michelle demonstrate how a traditional 25 millimetre wide by up to 24 metre long cotton belt is worn as a wide brimmed hat, which was quite interesting.

Our evening walk home was punctuated by an evening downpour, which didn’t do anything to dampen my spirits in the least.