RIO DULCE – Izabal, GUA

While all of the girls went for a 2-hour kayak paddle at 5:30 this morning, I took in the sunset from my casa’s porch with a cup of coffee and the on-line edition of the Sydney Morning Herald – I reckon I know who got the better deal.

At 9 bells we were all off on in a hired water taxi to go check out the Río Dulce, locally known as the “Sweet River”. For our first stop we headed inland to Guatemala’s biggest lake – Lake Izabal, and the fortified garrison of Castillo de San Felipe which was originally constructed in 1644.

From there we headed out across Lake El Golfete, towards the Caribbean Sea, stopping off at the Mayan village of Q’eqchi and the limestone caves of Aguas Termales Rio Dulce, before arriving at Livingstone around lunchtime.

Our skipper took us the Happy Fish restaurant to pre-order our lunches and continued on to Playa Capitania for a view out to the Caribbean sea. A great little impromptu fun stop was when I mentioned to Sonia that the local neighbourhood bar had Gallo for $1.90 AUD, so with her being in touch with her Catalana/Aussie self, decided this was the opportune time to settle a bet she had lost me.

Lunch was the local dish – Tapado, a seafood soup of prawns, crab, fish and plantains that is not unlike an Asian Laksa, but without the chilli, curry or noodles. I have to say it was awesome dish to wrap ya laughing gear around none the less.

It took us about an hour to get back to the Hacienda Tijax as the winds had picked up and was causing white caps and choppy conditions on both the lake and Río Dulce. Not that it was a major concern as upon arrival, I simply fell into the pool and called it good for the rest of the day.

RIO DULCE – Izabal, GUA

Today was one of those days in which any fair dinkum fella looks forward to like a swift kick in the pterodactyls – a 7-hour bus ride through switchback mountain roads, with oncoming drivers’ hell bent on meeting their respective Gods … but only at your personal safety or demise.

Our first “yippee” for the day was when somehow our CEO “Wander Woman” Sonia managed to score yesterday’s 24 seat mini-bus and driver to transport all 6 of us “G Family” members the 320 kilometre (200 mile) drive to Hacienda Tijax on the Río Dulce.

I tell you what, I not the marrying kind … just yet, but if Sonia keeps this up, I’ll let her buy me a cerveza or 10.

A couple of hours in to the trip, we pulled up for a quick 15 minute “leak & peak” in Sanarate, before continuing on to the town of Teculután.

While the rest of the crew dined at the Hotel El Atlantico, I on the other hand had the second “yippee” moment when nothing on the hotel menu struck my fancy, I headed out on to the streets and found Cafetería Y Pupusería El Buen Gusto.

Cafetería Y Pupusería is a local family owned enterprise that served me up Carne Asada with some of the most wicked beans & rice I’ve ever had, plus a fresh cucumber, carrot, lettuce & radish salad, 3 tortillas and bottle of water – all for $4.77 AUD ….. Ab-Fab, loved it, full stop, end of story!!!

From Teculután it was a further 152 kilometres (94 miles) into the docks of Rio Dulce where we transferred to a water taxi for the 15 minute ride to Hacienda Tijax.

I’m so not a big fan of being stuck in a gilded cage, but I have to say I’m loving the accommodations and environs that this place provides – it literally is a cubby house in a rain forest and a welcome change to the hard cityscapes I’ve experienced of late.